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Here at Silverball Restorations we buy, sell, repair, and restore classic arcade machines and pinball machines. We also help people to find games that they are looking for. When we receive a game, it’s given the full restoration treatment before it’s shipped out to one of our buyers. You can also ship or drop off your games for repairs or restoration, just contact us first for a free quote.
Sell us your old games! – We love to buy games that have either worn out their welcome with current owners or they’re in states of disrepair and could use a solid restoration before being put back out on the market. We give fair value for older machines, so please let us know what you have. If you’re in Utah or in a nearby state, we even provide pickup service for old games.
Want to trade? – We’re open to trading machines straight across, or even for up/down situations with cash. Have a Medieval Madness (or similarly high priced game) and you want to swap it for 2-3 lower priced games? We can work out a deal. Alternatively we can also take 2-3 of your games in exchange for an A list and restored game of ours.
Keep checking in for regular posts regarding tips on how to fix and maintain your current machines. Hopefully anybody out there that is into this hobby can learn how to diagnose and fix issues with their machines. If you want instructions on how to do any sort of repair, please contact us and we’ll work on producing a video for it.
My Simpsons Pinball Party (TSPP) has been quite a reliable machine for me, but a couple of weeks ago I started having issues where the game would reset randomly on me. I broke out my digital multimeter and found that my +5VDC was coming in a little low and that it was fluctuating to lower voltages to the point where it would cause the game to reset, almost as if it was being powered off and back on.
With the Stern White Star system, the +5VDC is rectified at BRDG21, and if there’s a problem with that bridge rectifier, you’re going to have issues with resets. In order to measure whether or not you’re getting proper voltages, you need to measure at R114. I found that I was floating around +4.89VDC with drops down below +4.8VDC. I decided that it was time to replace BRDG21.
After picking up some new bridge rectifiers (I grabbed a full replacement set) and some new capacitors from Action Pinball, I was set to start working on my driver board. Here are the steps taken in that repair process (click on images to enlarge).
First, you need to carefully remove the driver board from the pinball machine with the POWER OFF. As you unplug everything, make sure you take great care to not bend any pins or pull any wires loose. Don’t create any extra problems for yourself by working too quickly here.
Once you have the driver board removed, prep it for a bit of light solder work. It’s a good idea to clean up the area you’ll be soldering with some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. These boards are always dirtier than they look, and dirt can make it hard to make your solder flow.
I use a solder sucker to help me remove solder. As I heat up the legs of the BRDG21, I use the solder sucker to clear out as much solder as possible, making it easy to lift the bridge rectifier out after heating up the solder to the point where it would flow. Once I had the BRDG21 removed, I transferred the heat sink to the replacement bridge rectifier and prepared to solder it on the board.
Before installing the new bridge rectifier, make sure that you have it orientated correctly. Make sure that your positive and negative legs are in the correct spots, and go ahead and solder it in place. Do not trim the legs until after you’re completely done soldering. Note: Your replacement bridge rectifier might have different legs than what is on the original BRDG21, but it will work just the same. Just make sure your solder connections are good on the replacement and you won’t have any problems.
At this time, I chose to pass on replacing the other bridge rectifiers and capacitors, but it’s usually a good idea to do so while you have the board out of the machine. On a short schedule, I needed to wrap things up at this point.
After trimming the legs off of the replacement bridge rectifier, I put the board back into the machine, carefully ensuring that all wiring is re-installed carefully and correctly.
After powering the game back up, I checked the voltages and everything was in the acceptable range. After playing the game for a while, I can report that resets have stopped and I’m back to hitting those Super Jackpots and continuing my never ending quest to see the Super Duper Mega Extreme Wizard Mode.
I’ve been pretty quiet lately, but that’s all about to change. I’ll be coming back with more videos soon, but even soon I’ll be launching The Pinball Podcast along with another pinball enthusiast and collector. The shows will be published over at http://www.thepinballpodcast.com and we’re going to be sticking to a regular schedule of either once a month or twice a month, which we’ll be figuring out real soon. I hope you’ll listen!
This is a very easy modification to The Addams Family that is worth looking into if you are looking to add some quick flash (literally) to your game. All you need to do is replace the 906 flasher bulbs that are on top of your backbox with something that gives off a bit more of a punch. The folks over at Cointaker LEDs (www.cointaker.com) have the perfect solution with their SUPER 13 906 LEDs. I used two white LEDs for the left and right bulbs, and a white bulb for the center. The result is amazing! Take a look at the video embedded below from my machine and then head over to Cointaker.com to get some.
Note: This is the game running in test mode. During the actual play the effect is more reminiscent of lightning than this quick off and on flashing.
I have a nice Revenge From Mars that I’ve cleaned up and I’ve installed an LCD screen into. The game plays great, but I do need to change out a couple of switches that are acting up and I’m toying with the idea of putting the original monitor back into the game before offering it up for sale. I’ll post pictures soon, but it looks like the price of the game is going to be right around $2,000, give or take a little.
It’s always nice to get a good project in, especially if it’s going to be a keeper, but the past couple of weeks have been particularly kind and I’ve been hit with four projects at once. Here’s what I have in the garage right now, and what I have to do to each of them.
World Cup Soccer ’94
I had this one shipped in from South Carolina and it got here in one piece, but the shooter assembly was completely trashed. The shooter rod was bent at nearly a 90 degree angle and the housing was hammered. I already ordered a replacement assembly and installed that, but here’s what’s left to do.
Revenge From Mars
I picked this up while out at the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown. It was filthy, but I already tore it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. I’ve had to do some board work on it as well, and I may not be done with that. The right flipper stops working at times, so there’s an issue there to address. The game also has about 4 broken switches that I need to replace. I swapped the CRT out for an LCD, and I think the image has improved dramatically. Here’s what’s still needed.
Attack From Mars
This was a local score, and it’s in great condition. The game recently had new decals installed, so it looks absolutely mint. Not much to do here, but a light shop job.
This was another local pickup, and I feel fortunate to have come across this before it was officially listed for sale. Huge thanks to kickback, an RGP user and another local collector/good guy, for the insider info on this one. Unfortunately, this is the dirtiest and most needy machine of the bunch, but there’s literally no wear anywhere, so it will clean up nice.
I’m starting to see that it might be tough to keep all four machines, so one of them might get put on the for sale list, but I’m really hoping to find a way to keep all four. Space is the biggest issue for me right now, and I like to save garage space for shopping out pins and arcade machines that I’m selling. Either way, it’s a fun haul to have around. Look for more how to videos and pinball machine reviews coming soon as these machines give me a good canvas to work with.
Last month, out in Golden, Colorado, the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown was held where tons of games were put on free play, a tournament was ran, and tons of people gathered to swap stories, games, and parts. It was a great experience for all who went, despite some turbulent weather. I took out my Williams Indiana Jones to sell, as well as a Judge Dredd that I was delivering as a favor for a local collector. On the way home I brought back a Revenge From Mars, Guns N’ Roses, Funhouse, and Dr. Who; but only the Revenge was for me to keep. All in all, it was a fantastic trip. Here is some footage from the show.
An RGP member posted some impressions of his time with Iron Man, the next pinball machine coming from Stern. It was a test location game with incomplete software, but he seems to have had a favorable experience overall. Here are some of his posts.
I just happened to be eating lunch at GW and Pat Powers shows up with
a brand new IRON MAN. He set up the game and I got to play first.
Software is 0.5
Art package is great
Audio was incomplete but the sounds and music that were there is
AWESOME. Lots of cool sound effects. Neat sound for the tilt
warning. Some new sounds when putting you name in for the high
score. NO AC/DC or Sabith [sic] that i heard.
There are 2 magnets in the game. One for Iron Monger and one for
whiplash. Iron monger is a cool bash toy. Definetly needs a LED mod
for his chest. The war machine kick back is like the one in JP FAST.
Cool left orbit shot.
3 multi balls so far. Monger, War machine and Whiplash.
Good flow in the game with the orbit shots and ramps. However if you
miss thoses shots you will pay the price by hitting the Drone stand up
targets. The bounce the ball right back at you like in POTC.
The magnet become active when Iron Monger lifts from the playfieild.
You riase him by hitting orbit shots and the up the middle shot. The
ball was not held in the multi ball that I had however it grabs the
ball while bashing the monger and flings it back at you, FAST…
I have not played AP [Austin Powers] but the monger comes up fast. He also has 2
positions. He comes up half way to bash his sholders. and all the
way up to bash his knees or nards. Pat told me there are 3 optos that
register hits, one for each sholder and one for the knees. monger is
plastic. however Pats says they tested the heck out of it.
DMD stuff is way early but it was a mix of Movie and animation. One
cool thing in the DMD was when you make an orbit or ramp you see iron
flying with some cool sounds.
[speaking of the Iron Monger piece]
Its a nice piece of engineering. He is kind of on a Flat metal piece
sort of on a pivot spring thing in the middle. Hard to explain but it
felt sturdy when I was messing with it.
More impressions should star popping up all over RGP and forums soon as more test locations are set up and the machine makes its way to the pinball shows and expos.